Let me start with WOW! After spending several weeks working our way through southern Michigan, we had begun to question the inexplicable beauty everyone talks about when they describe Up North and Upper Peninsula Michigan.
When we finally arrived just outside Traverse City on the Leelanau Peninsula in Suttons Bay, we were in absolute awe! There was inspiring beauty everywhere. Knowing we only had 2 weeks to soak it all in we began our stay with a BANG! Therefore, this is a long post covering kayaking, biking, beaches, small towns, scenic drives and everything in between. I think the best way is to break it up into two separate posts.
This post will cover everything related to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
In a second post we will cover everything in the surrounding areas, that we managed to fit in our 2-week stay including Traverse City and Old Mission Peninsula, Leelanau Peninsula and so much more.
Things we recommend in:
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
Named the “Most Beautiful Place in America” on ABC’s Good Morning America, it’s no wonder why so many people flock to Sleeping Bear Dunes every year! Explore Michigan’s Coast, the hills, dunes, valleys, and shoreline. There’s nothing better than watching the sunset from the sand dunes.
FUN FACT: There are only three (3) National Lakeshores within the United States. Two of them are in Michigan: Sleeping Bear Dunes and Pictured Rocks. The third is Apostle Islands in Wisconsin which we will visit next year (2024).
We will be
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is a stunning natural wonder located in Northern Michigan, a place to play, dream, refresh, with miles of sandy beaches, towering bluffs that reach up to 450 feet above Lake Michigan, dense forests, crystal-clear inland lakes, and a diverse range of flora and fauna. This picturesque landscape offers visitors a chance to immerse themselves in the beauty of nature, with opportunities for hiking, swimming, camping, and wildlife viewing. Whether you’re exploring the towering dunes, marveling at the scenic vistas, or simply relaxing on the pristine shoreline, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore promises an unforgettable experience for nature enthusiasts and outdoor adventurers alike.
High dunes afford spectacular views across the lake
Lighthouses within the park and nearby
US Life-Saving Service station museums
Nearby coastal villages, and picturesque farmsteads. All reflect the park’s rich maritime, agricultural, and recreational history.
Hiking
With 100 miles of designated trails there are 13 trails that are maintained for hiking and most of them are maintained during the winter for cross country skiing and snowshoeing.
We didn’t have the time to get to all 13 trails. Mike combed the reviews and considered the length and difficulty and we settled on several of the most popular. Here are our reviews and recommendations.
#1 Empire Bluff
It is easy to see why this is one of the most popular hikes in the park. It is by far our #1 pick. Empire Bluff Trail offers breathtaking views of Lake Michigan and the surrounding dunes.
The trailhead is easily accessible off M-109, just a short drive from the visitor center. The trail itself is approximately 1.5 miles long and is considered moderate in difficulty, making it suitable for hikers of various fitness levels.
As you make your way along the trail, you will be enchanted by the beauty of the lush forested area surrounding you. The trail gradually ascends to the bluff, offering glimpses of the shimmering lake through the trees.
Once you reach the bluff, you will be rewarded with an awe-inspiring panoramic view of Lake Michigan. The sparkling blue waters stretch out as far as the eye can see, complemented by the towering sand dunes that make up the picturesque coastline.
Overall, the Empire Bluff Trail offers a serene and captivating experience, allowing you to connect with nature and marvel at the majestic beauty of Lake Michigan in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
#2 Dune Climb
The Dune Climb in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is a popular attraction known for providing visitors an opportunity to explore the vast expanse of sandy hills and experience the thrill of ascending to the top. With a height of about 100 feet, the climb can be both challenging and rewarding. As you make your way to the summit, be prepared for stunning panoramic vistas of Lake Michigan and the surrounding scenic landscape. Whether you’re seeking a fun outdoor adventure or a picturesque spot for photography, the Dune Climb is a must-visit destination in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
The climb to the lakeshore is 1.8 miles with a few steep climbs paved with very soft sand which increases the difficulty. We noticed most families ascended the first climb from the parking lot which is the first 0.1 mile, 100′ climb. Some made it to the steepest climb that is about 1 mile in and provides (in our opinion) best view. If you continue to the Lakeshore, you will be able to cool off before starting your climb back.
All in all the experience took us about an hour each way and we spent about an hour on the beach. I rated this hike as #2 because of the popularity (it’s a MUST in this park) and I enjoyed the challenge. Mike would argue with me…. he was not a fan (probably because he toted a 25 pound camera pack that he didn’t use). But this is one of the top hikes in the park so for me it is a definite MUST DO.
#3 Pyramid Point Trail
Pyramid Point is one of the best in the park as it doesn’t have popularity of the Dune CLimb but still provides stunning views without the crowds. The 2.6-mile trail also traverses old farm fields and century-old beech-maple forests. But to many the trail’s most unique aspect is the off-the-beaten-path location.
Paddling
There are incredible opportunities for kayaking within the park boundaries. With its stunning shoreline along Lake Michigan and the crystal-clear waters of the surrounding inland lakes, it is a paddler’s paradise. Here are some notable spots to explore.
NOTE: Remember to always check the weather conditions, wear a personal flotation device, and follow any safety guidelines provided by the National Park Service.
Happy kayaking in Sleeping Bear Dunes!
#1 Glen Haven Beach
Glen Haven Beach is a picturesque destination situated within the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Northern Michigan. This stunning beach is nestled along the eastern shore of Lake Michigan.
As you approach Glen Haven Beach, you’ll be greeted by a charming parking lot that leads down to the shoreline. The beach itself is encompassed by towering sand dunes and lush greenery, creating a scenic backdrop for your adventures. The soft, golden sands invite you to take off your shoes and feel the warmth beneath your feet, but does test your endurance when lugging a kayak to the shoreline.
We went left at the beach and paddled 4-miles, just short of the famed Dunes Climb and stopped to lull in the waters and soak up the sun and solitude as not many swimmers and beachgoers make it to those shores.
#2 Esch Beach to Empire Bluff
Located along the beautiful Lake Michigan coast, Esch Beach offers soft golden sands and crystal-clear turquoise waters perfect for a refreshing swim, leisurely stroll or putting in your kayak or paddle board for a serene paddle along the shoreline.
We arrived at the out of way beach in Empire around 9 AM with only 2 other vehicles in the lot. It was an easy carry to the water and off we went headed to the Empire Bluff area. Just about 3-miles later we find a beautiful sandy area and parked it for several hours to enjoy solitude and the occasional walker from Esch Beach. Yes, we could have walked there but to see the dunes from the lake and paddle the clear water is an amazing adventure in itself. Several hours later we are back at the car and a crowded parking lot.
Piping Plover
It was at the parking lot after this paddle that we leaned of the plight of the Piping Plover. A young ranger with her team of volunteers were diligently working to educate beach goes about the adorable little shore birds. Here is a short synopsis of the challenges they face.
Michigan is home to a population of adorable and endangered piping plovers. These small shorebirds nest along the sandy beaches of the Great Lakes, including Lake Michigan. With their distinctive, pale brown and white plumage, they blend in perfectly with the surrounding sand, making them quite challenging to spot. Piping plovers are known for their unique piping call, which gives them their name.
These birds face many threats, such as habitat loss, predation, and disturbance from human activities. To protect them, conservation efforts have been put in place, including the establishment of restricted nesting areas. Conservation organizations and volunteers work tirelessly to monitor and protect the nesting sites, ensuring the survival of these special birds.
If you happen to visit the beaches of Michigan, keep an eye out for these tiny avian treasures. Remember to respect any posted nesting areas and be mindful of your impact on their fragile habitat. With everyone’s help, we can ensure that piping plovers continue to thrive in Michigan for generations to come.
#3 Platte River
The Platte River is a beautiful waterway that flows through the northwestern Lower Peninsula within the boundaries of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. It meanders for approximately 30 miles before emptying into Lake Michigan.
Renowned for its crystal-clear waters, picturesque scenery, and diverse wildlife, it is a favorite for numerous recreational opportunities, such as tubing, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, and wildlife spotting while.
For a fun tubing trip to cool off on a hot summer day, check with one of the outfitters in the area.
For our trip in our kayaks, we opted for a longer float and launched our boats a nice park about 3-miles (by road) from the takeout at Platte River Beach. There isn’t an official name of the park, that we can find, but it is identified as Platte River Paddle Trip on Google Maps. This is a beautiful park with spacious amounts of parking, shaded areas with picnic tables, nice restrooms and a boat launch area complete with a ramp to easily slide your vessel down to the water.
We paddled almost 4-miles passing through Loon Lake, stopping for some sun and fun on the shores of Lake Michigan’s Platte River Pointe Beach and taking out at Platte River Beach Parking where Mike strategically stashed his bicycle here to ride the 3-miles to the Subaru and back to pick me and the gear up.
Whether you’re seeking relaxation or adventure, the Platte River is sure to captivate you with its natural charm. Be prepared for crowds, especially during the summer months. We opted for an earlier start in the middle of the week to reduce our exposure to the party crowds we heard occupy the river on the weekends.
Biking
Sleeping Bear Dunes Heritage Trail
We’ve biked many trails around the country and this definitely ranks up there as one of our favorites.
The Sleeping Bear Dunes Heritage Trail is a scenic trail located within the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Stretching for approximately 22 miles, this trail meanders through stunning landscapes encompassing sand dunes, forests, and picturesque Lake Michigan vistas.
The trail offers visitors an opportunity to explore the natural beauty and cultural history of the area. Along the route, you will encounter interpretive signs that provide information about the dunes’ formation, the region’s geological past, and the diverse flora and fauna that call this place home.
There are several different access points to be able to make your experience as long or as short as suits your needs.
Our day consisted of parking at the beach access (Good Harbor Beach) on Bohemian Road. This requires a short peddle on the road leading to the start of the trail system which begins off M22. (NOTE: A lot of people park on the side of Bohemian Road, we opted for a spot near the beach access for an “after party” to cool of in the waters of Lake Michigan after our ride.)
The 22-mile ride mostly follows a wide path alternating between hard packed gravel to paved sidewalks that are off the main road. Unfortunately, the route through the town of Glen Arbor has been routed through the busier parts on the road, having to dodge the traffic. If you choose, you can by-pass this by ???? MIKE FILL THIS IN.
The trail will take you through Glen Arbor and some of the larger highlights of the park like the Dune Climb, Glen Arbor Beach and it’s historic buildings and into Empire. We opted to turn around at the end as described by All-Trails and not follow the short road that will take you into the town of Empire.
On our way back we locked up our bikes at the area provided by Cherry Republic and indulged in dessert at the Red Box Creamery and a bit of shopping at some of the boutiques.
Back at our vehicle, we changed into our swim gear and walked to the lakeshore at Good Harbor Beach to cool off and relax.
So, dive into the beauty of the path, immerse yourself in the wonders of nature, and create cherished memories along the Sleeping Bear Dunes Heritage Trail.
South Manitou Island
The Manitou Islands are a pair of beautiful islands located in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. These islands, known as North Manitou Island and South Manitou Island, offer breathtaking natural beauty and a rich history. The Native American story of the islands is beautiful.
Sleeping Bear Dunes gets its name from a Chippewa legend that tells the story of a mother bear and her two cubs who, fleeing a fire in the woods of Wisconsin on the other side of Lake Michigan, plunged into the lake and began swimming to find safe haven. But the swim was tiring, and the cubs soon fell behind their mother. Upon reaching Michigan’s shores, the mother bear climbed out of the water, turned and watched, waiting for her cubs to join her. The cubs came into sight, but, too tired to finish the journey, they drowned just before reaching shore. The mother then lay down and fell into a slumber, forever awaiting her cubs. A spirit known as the Great Spirit Manitou created two islands — North and South Manitou islands — to commemorate the spot where the cubs’ journey ended, and then covered the mother with sand, forming the famous dune at the lakeshore.
North Manitou Island is the larger of the two, spanning approximately 15,000 acres. It is a designated wilderness area with towering dunes, lush forests, and picturesque shoreline. There are hiking trails that wind through the island, providing opportunities to observe diverse wildlife and discover hidden gems like a ghost town. If you want to visit North Manitou you can access by private boat or by passenger ferry service run by Manitou Island Transit. If you choose the Ferry you must spend the night with only primitive campsites. If using a personal watercraft, be sure to know the rules for landing (think Piping Plovers and natural protected areas), have the proper park pass and PLEASE, LEAVE NO TRACE. If you pack in, you can pack it out.
South Manitou Island, while smaller in size, is equally captivating. It is home to a historic lighthouse that is accessible to tour. The island also boasts captivating shipwrecks that are popular among scuba divers. Furthermore, South Manitou Island offers spectacular views of Lake Michigan, with its sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters.
As with North Manitou, you can access by private watercraft or by the Ferry operated by Manitou Island Transit. You can opt for an overnight stay issued via a permitting system or with a day trip. We opted for the day trip and here are our takeaways both good and disappointing.
First the good:
- The Ferry is well kept, nicely equipped with beverage and snack service and the staff is friendly.
- The price of $45 per person plus applicable taxes, is fairly reasonable.
- The island is beautiful with nice beaches, beautiful and historic lighthouse, visitor center and historic buildings.
- They offer two different tours of the island which last approximately 2-hours and are on tractor driven trailers with comfortable seating.
- The Farm and Schoolhouse Tour (do this tour)
- The Cedars and Shipwreck Tour
The disappointing:
- The Ferry departs the dock at LeLand’s Fishtown at 10 AM. The ferry trip takes approximately 1.5-hours. During the ride you can sign up for one of the tours, after speaking with the knowledgeable guide we opted for the Cedars and Shipwreck Tour.
- Once you dock at 11:30 and await the encouraged “welcome talk” by a volunteer, it’s 12 when the tours begin to load. They promise to have you back to the lighthouse by 3.
- You are required back at the dock by 3:30 to await boarding of the vessel by 3:45 and a prompt depart at 4:00.
- That only leaves you 3.5 hours to explore which just wasn’t’ enough time for us to hit the highlights.
- Our tram experienced a flat tire and we had to walk almost the entire loop to see the Cedars, Shipwreck and get back to the lighthouse which was 7’ish miles. By the time we arrived at the lighthouse we had 20-minutes to photograph it and do the tour. Not nearly enough time to visit the lighthouse or the visitor center or even enjoy dipping our toes in the sand of the lovely beach.
- In hindsight, we would have booked an overnight stay to be able to leisurely explore the island.
We highly recommend the experience, just be prepared and temper your expectations.
Museums
There are two in the park that we were aware of; the Cannery Boathouse Museum and the Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Museum. Both are free to tour and definitely worth a look-see.
Cannery Boathouse Museum
Aside from its natural beauty, Glen Haven Beach is also steeped in history. The neighboring historic village of Glen Haven takes you back in time, allowing you to explore restored buildings and learn about the area’s maritime heritage. You can visit the Cannery Boathouse Museum, which showcases the village’s fishing industry with a collection of 50 boats dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s ranging from fishing, pleasure and commercial boats. There is historic artifacts such as fishing gear, nautical charts and ship models all used around the Glen Haven and the Manitou Islands areas. The building itself is a former cannery that was built in the 1920s and later converted into the museum in the 1970s by a group of volunteers. It is interesting (especially the moustache boat) and worth a visit.
Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Museum
The Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Museum is a remarkable institution that offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the rich history of the U.S. Coast Guard in the Great Lakes region. This museum not only showcases the heroic stories of the brave men and women of the Coast Guard but also highlights the significance of Great Lakes shipping.
As you step into this museum, you are greeted by knowledgeable volunteers who enthusiastically share captivating tales of the U.S. Life Saving Service and the Coast Guard’s life-saving equipment. The exhibits paint a vivid picture of how these courageous individuals lived and worked, relentlessly dedicating their efforts to save lives amidst the treacherous waters of the Great Lakes.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, a maritime lover, or simply seeking to appreciate the valor of the Coast Guard, a visit to the Sleeping Bear Point Coast Guard Museum will leave you awe-inspired and with a deeper appreciation for the remarkable history that unfolded along these shores.
Dining & Shopping
Glen Arbor, Michigan
The lovely town of Glen Arbor; tucked away amidst Lake Michigan, the Glen Lakes, and the Crystal River. The Sleeping Bear Dunes, Maple City, and Empire are all nearby, making Glen Arbor a fantastic year-round recreation destination
In addition to its natural attractions, Glen Arbor features a vibrant downtown area filled with unique shops, art galleries, and delectable eateries. You can indulge in locally sourced cuisine, enjoy handmade crafts, or simply relax in one of the charming cafes. Don’t forget to sample the famous cherry-based treats that the region is known for!
Whether you’re looking to explore the great outdoors, immerse yourself in art and culture, or simply unwind in a tranquil setting, Glen Arbor, MI has something for everyone. Experience the beauty and hospitality of this enchanting village and create lasting memories in this hidden gem of Michigan.
We enjoyed browsing (and buying) from the local shops like Cherry Republic where you can experience all things Cherry. Dine on local favorites at Cherry Republic House, partake in a wine tasting at their Winery, indulge in a Cherry dessert at their like Red Box Creamery, and definately shop all things Cherry at their Great Hall of the Republic. They offer picnic tables to relax outdoor and have a few activities (think Cherry Spitting practice) and other outdoor games to keep the kids entertained.
Beaches
The beach within Sleeping Bear Dunes are all picturesque stretches of shoreline along the pristine waters of Lake Michigan framed by towering dunes, providing stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Whether you enjoy sunbathing, swimming, or simply strolling along the water’s edge, this beach offers a perfect escape for nature lovers and beach enthusiasts alike.
Please remember that it is illegal under federal law to remove stones from the National Lakeshore. Leave what you see for others to discover!
-From National Park Website
I’m not entirely certain how many beaches are located within the borders of this National Lakeshore but these are the ones we visited an would recommend:
Most Secluded
Point Oneida Beach
Located on the southern side of the park, just past Glen Arbor the step-by-step directions are easily accessed from Google Maps. There is very limited parking and access to the beach is easily done to the left of the fence where you will find a short hiking path that will allow you to gradually descend to the beach. With limited parking and no facilities, you may have Port Oneida Beach completely to yourself.
Sleeping Bear Dunes Beach
Accessing this beach is an adventure in itself as you will need to climb the 1.8 miles through rolling dunes via the Dune Climb Trail. This hike is unlike anything you may be used to as it navigates through such a unique biome of fine soft sand and flora. Pack a light backpack with a towel and a few refreshments as the trail is considered moderate to hard with the soft-soft sand and elevation gain.
Easiest Access
Esch Beach
Located on the southern side of Sleeping Bear Dunes, Esch Road Beach provides views of the Platte Bay, sits at the mouth of Otter Creek, is a wonderful swimming beach protected from higher waves in the Platte Bay. The shoreline goes on for miles so there are lots of opportunities to get your steps in to reach a secluded spot with towering dunes as your backdrop. We’ve heard it tell that this beach is “far less crowds than Glen Harbor” and while that may be true, it was still very crowded during our visit. Cars waiting in line to find a spot to park.
Good Harbor Bay
With a long sandy beach, crystal clear waters, and a fully paved road leading right up to a large parking lot with minimal facilities, this is a popular beach in Sleeping Bear Dunes. Enjoy the view of the Manitou Islands while enjoying the cool clear water. Located on the northern tip of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park off M22.
Glen Haven Beach
Located in the historic town of Glen Haven, this beach is located alongside the Cannery Boat Museum. With plenty of history and informational signage, this beach adds an appreciation for a historic village to your travels. With parking seconds from the beach and facilities available a short distance from the beach and adjacent to the historic General Store, this is a family-friendly beach that gets very busy and crowded so plan accordingly.
Platte River Pointe Beach
This sublime area where the Platte River flows into Lake Michigan is a busy place during the hot summer days. The finish line for Platte River tubers and paddlers means a bustling parking lot, but you’re a short walk away from bathing in the shallows of the river or taking a plunge in the depths of Lake Michigan. The river is shallow and flows rapidly at this point, and kids and adults alike love swimming and floating in the current and wave action that occurs where the waters merge. The awe-inspiring views of Empire Bluffs and Sleeping Bear Point are just icing on the cake.
In Closing
We enjoyed our too short 14-night stay in this Northern Michigan township. Although we feel like we covered most of the highlights we could have stayed several weeks more in this paradise.
Stay tuned for lots of posts and more importantly….. photographs by James Frazier (aka Mike).
Dream Big….Travel Far….Live Well
Photography
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