The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) ….

Have you ever considered a backcountry canoe expedition? Well, Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area may be just the place! There are lots of pre-planning steps to put the reality into place so please read and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

We love getting off the beaten path and experiencing solitude combined with paddling pristine waterways and backcountry camping. It shouldn’t be a surprise that Minnesota’s Boundary Waters has been on our bucket list 🪣for years.

In late July early August 2024 we made that dream a reality but it took a lot of pre-planning including (1) speaking with rangers and doing research to find the perfect route (2) securing a place to stay which for us was a Forest Service Campground (3) securing permits for two different overnight stays (4) booking an outfitter and (5) equipment gathering.

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Preparation – Planning

Deciding Routes

Because Mike is very thorough and meticulous with planning, one year in advance he consulted numerous websites, purchased books, referred back to saved articles, called outfitters and spoke to a ranger (or two) to decide what would work for our 14-night stay to cover as much of the “best” of the diverse landscape of the 1,100,000 acres that lay within the Boundary Waters Canoe Access.

The permitting system grants you access to the BWCA. It does not single out and permit camping sites. You apply for an entry point, an exit point and how many nights you intend to stay.

In addition to applying in advance, there are a certain amount of permits that are saved for walk-ins. So you can always go to a ranger station and apply for last minutes walk in permits and if you’re lucky, you can snag one.

If you chose to use an outfitter for planning and equipment, they have a certain amount of allotted permits that are used for customers which may be an easier alternative for novices.

Accommodations

Now that you have your entry point figured out, where to stay…..💭🤔💭

Ely, the gateway to the BWCA has options from lodges, to family run motels to campgrounds. Based on the size of our RV, a 44′ Class A Monaco, we decided our best option for our size rig was the Fall Lake Campground within the Superior National Forest and operated by the USDA Forest Service.

This campground is very competitive and requires advance planning to secure a site during the busy summer season.

Fall Lake Campground, like most public campgrounds in Minnesota, does not have water or sewer access. But they do offer nice level sites that supply electric. Their well maintained bath houses serve your needs for showers and toilets for extended stays. They do NOT have a dump station¹ even if you have a “honey pot” or “tote tank”.

1 The Ely Chamber of Commerce parking lot has a dump station for a minimal fee of $10. We did this upon entering Ely as well as exiting the BWCA area. The area is well designed for rigs of all sizes to comfortably get in and out of the Dump area.

Our reservation allowed us to stay for 14-nights at the Fall Lake Campground, the maximum limit for Minnesota State Parks. Most of that stay was in the back country while Rosie (our RV) remained safe at the campground.

Campground Review: We had site 10 which was a level pull-through site with a gravel drive and patio area facing the forest. There was a picnic table and fire pit for our use.

• Getting to the campground was easy on paved roads.
• The roads within the campground are paved and in good condition.
• The trees are well trimmed for larger rigs.
• The road signage was well marked
• The campground office was not open when we arrived but there was a welcome packet.
• No camp store but they did sell camp wood.
• There are two well kept bath houses.
• No laundry facilities, but there are several in the town of Ely.
• There is a beach area, picnic areas and playground.
• Communication with the outside world was difficult. There was no over air antenna, cable TV or WiFi. We were able to use our T-Mobile Hot Spot for phone calls but not much else. Our Verizon service did not work in the campground but did work in the town of Ely and surrounding areas. Several establishments in town provide free WiFi if needed.

Permits

This coveted and protected area is extremely popular and requires a permit for overnight trips through the busy season of May 1 through September 30. The permits are intended to manage visitation and protect the area’s natural resources and wilderness values.

These permits are obtained through a quota system with limited spots available and obtained through Recreation.gov.

As soon as the site was “live” we logged in and were able to secure the two separate 5-days stays we wanted.

NOTE: Day use visitors (non-motorized) must self permit at kiosks and Forest Service offices without a reservation. 

NOTE: Permits do have a fee attached to them but in our opinion, it is money well spent to preserve and protect these fragile lands.

Upon arriving in Ely and just 1 day before our trip we headed o the ranger station to pick up the paperwork, watch an informative safety video and pick up last minute supplies.

The closest ranger station to Fall Lake Campground is Kawishiwi Ranger District located at 1393 NM-169 in Ely. It is a beautifully done facility complete with history, knowledgeable rangers and a well stocked gift shop.

Outfitter

If you are a novice or simply don’t have the time to do all the pre-planning work, the outfitters in Ely have all the answers. They will guide a trip, plan a trip as well as supply everything you would need for your backcountry expedition.

We were traveling with our Wenonah Canoe and are lucky enough to have all the equipment we needed for our overnight excursions. We are seasoned backpackers so we travel light.

However, we did utilize local outfitters for a couple different logistics.

• Ely Outfitters assisted Mike in refining his route and purchase maps.
• LaTourell’s helped us with a “shuttle” to our starting point saving us 9-miles of paddling on our first day. The extra added benefit was having a secure area to park our vehicle during our backcountry stay.

Back Country Fun

First 5-Day Adventure Begins!

Day 1: Birch Lake to Knife River

The 9-mile ride was quick and before we knew it we had been dropped at our first destination on Sucker Lake. After a very short portage into Birch Lake our intent was to paddle into Knife River and find a campsite.

Excited with the prospect of fulfilling our Boundary Waters dream! Off we Go! But first….. a portage!

In awe of the clear water and amazing landscapes in front of us, we noticed that paddlers were “racing” and we do mean racing ahead of us.

Being novices, we had no idea why they would be rushing through the scenery and missing the loon families, the views, the crystal clear water….. WHY?

Well… as we learned the hard way….it’s because campsites, even with the permitting system, are hard to find. We learned too late that trying to paddle until late afternoon to find a campsite is NOT the way to go.

NOTE: There are those that go to fish and have a favorite spot picked that they’ve been coming to for years. They then stay at that site for several days. We learned that very few of the visitors move every day like we had intended.

We paddled until 5 o’clock with no luck at finding any sites available and finally opted to use a day use site. We were in a bind and justified to ourselves that because we use hammocks, didn’t light a fire and spent the majority of our time on the rocks, and only walked on areas used by day users, we made absolutely no impact on the site.

A group of rowdy young men made more of an impact on the site by running through the site continually that evening while rough housing, throwing rocks, disturbing logs, collecting fire wood, etc.

So much for a our introduction to the solitude of the great outdoors……

Day 2: Knife River to Cherry to Amoeber Lakes

On day two, having learned our lesson, we got an early start and paddled to beat the band….. we had our hearts set on a site on Cherry Lake.

Traveling from Knife River portaging to Amoeber Lake then Topaz Lake then Hanson Lake we made it, hopeful for a spot on Cherry Lake.

Arriving at approximately 11 am, it was just as beautiful as we had pictured it… but ….. every single campsite was full with big groups with multiple tents in areas not designated to camp in.

It is always disappointing when you see misuse of the resources even when protections are in place.

Disappointed, we back paddled and portaged the way we had come until we finally found a nice site for the evening on Black Bear Island on Amoeber Lake.

Day 3

Day 3, we paddled and portaged back to Knife River along the border of Canada to Vera Lake.

Before taking the long portage to Vera Lake, we were rewarded with a chance to watch loons feed in a cove right next the portage.

After a 0.6 mile steep portage we landed in Vera Lake. We found a lovely campsite and enjoyed our afternoon relaxing watching paddlers, loons, an eagle (or two) and even a beaver!

Day 4

Upon awaking to another blue sky dappled with fluffy white clouds, we portaged over to Ensign Lake where the wind really picked up but was short lived.

We found a site with a beach and several trees perfect for our hammocks. Not sure how a tent would have utilized this site.

After settling in, we got back in the canoe for a paddle about. We noticed an Eagles nest complete with 2 young eaglets. We watched the parents bring them food and marveled at the luck of camping near an eagles nest with views to watch them being fed.

Day 5 – Wrap Up!

That was QUICK! It is already time to wrap up our first outing.

A short portage and paddle to Sucker Lake where we had just enough cell service to phone the outfitter to come and get us. A short boat ride to LaTourell’s and we were on our way to a shower and dinner in Ely.

Trip 2: Lake 1 to Kawishiwi Lake

This was intended to be a completely different trip where we camped on each lake and took 5-days to experience. After speaking with a Ranger who warned that these Lakes were VERY busy and it would be extremely difficult to find a campsite based on the her permitting records. With her assistance we devised a different adventure.

Day 1

We put in on Lake One and paddled the Kawishiwi River into Kawishiwi Lake. Several portages later we found a lovely spot on the tip of an island to set camp for 2 nights.

We enjoyed our campsite very much. We lit a fire, heated up our meal and watch the sunset while drinking our boxed wine.

Day 2

We woke to a foggy morning. We watched the sunrise while drinking our coffee. We paddled down river for a few miles, saw more beautiful scenery and more full campsites. After having lunch on an empty site, we paddled back to enjoy our last night in the BWCA.

Day 3 – Wrap Up

Knowing this was our last back country experience in the BWCA for a while, we took the morning slow. After we were packed up we headed back the way we came to end up in Lake One and home by mid afternoon.

Nearby Attractions

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International Wolf Center

During our down time from paddling, we took the time to visit the renowned International Wolf Center. This unique destination not only educates the public about wolves but also serves as a research facility dedicated to wolf conservation. Here’s a glimpse of our experience there.

The IWC is renowned for its commitment to educating the public about wolves and their role in the ecosystem. They do this with immersive exhibits and a focus on research.

As we explored the center, we discovered various interactive exhibitions that provided us with insights into the biology and behavior of wolves. The educational displays covered topics like pack dynamics, communication, and the importance of wolves in maintaining healthy ecosystems.

One of the highlights was the Live Wolf Cam, which allowed us to observe a pack of ambassador wolves in their habitat. Watching these majestic creatures interact was both captivating and inspiring.

The facilities at the International Wolf Center are impressive. The outdoor viewing area offers a clear view of the wolf habitats, while the visitor center features a range of informative displays and a gift shop where we could find unique wolf-themed merchandise.

Our visit to the International Wolf Center was an unforgettable experience that deepened our appreciation for these incredible animals. The blend of education, conservation, and interaction made it a must-visit for anyone traveling to Ely, MN.

Soudan Underground Mine Park

A 40-minute drive from our campground in Ely, sits the Soudan Underground Mine State Park. This historic site offers a unique glimpse into the rich mining history of the region.

As Minnesota’s oldest iron mine, this park allows visitors to embark on an unforgettable underground tour that descends 2,341 feet below the earth’s surface.

What to Expect

The park features guided tours that take you deep into the mine, showcasing the impressive networks of tunnels and the historical artifacts that tell the story of iron mining.

During our visit in August 2024, the underground portion of the tour was closed due to unprecedented flooding in the area that also flooded the mine for the first time EVER! They were diligently working on it; but with a severe learning curve. Our tour included just the above ground building and machinery.

At the visitor center, you can learn more about mining history through informative exhibits and engaging displays.

In addition to the flooding of the mine, our visit happened on a rainy dreary day that discouraged us from partaking in the hiking trails, picnic areas, and scenic viewpoints.

Whether you’re an outdoor enthusiast or history buff, Soudan Underground Mine State Park is a fascinating destination that offers a unique perspective on Minnesota’s industrial past.

Restaurants in Ely

Boathouse Brewpub and Restaurant

Nestled in the heart of Ely, the Boathouse Brewpub and Restaurant with a welcoming atmosphere offers a delightful fusion of hearty cuisine and freshly brewed craft beers that will satisfy any palate with a diverse menu that includes everything from delicious burgers and fresh salads to mouth-watering pizzas along with signature craft brews.

Whether you’re looking for a cozy spot to unwind or a hearty meal to fuel your next outdoor adventure, this is the perfect place to enjoy great food, refreshing drinks, and a welcoming atmosphere.

We enjoyed this establishment so much we visited twice!

Grand Ely Lodge Restaurant and Bar

Located on the edge of the world-famous Boundary Waters Canoe Area, just outside the town of Ely sits the Grand Ely Lodge’s Evergreen Restaurant. What makes this such a wonderful dining experience is the setting with views of Shagawa Lake along with delightful log cabin-inspired decor that truly captures the essence of Minnesota’s Northwoods.

We especially enjoyed their Chicken & Wild Rice Soup and their Broasted Chicken 2-Piece Dinner. The food was very tasty, the local brews offered at the bar were refreshing and the atmosphere and service were spot on!

We enjoyed this establishment so much we visited twice!

Insula Restaurant

Nestled in the town of Ely, the Insula Restaurant stands out as a must-visit dining destination. This cozy eatery offers a delightful blend of fresh, locally sourced ingredients and a unique menu that highlights the flavors of the region.

Upon entering Insula, you’re greeted by a welcoming atmosphere that combines rustic charm with modern aesthetics. Whether you choose to dine indoors surrounded by local artwork or enjoy the fresh air on the outdoor patio, every meal is paired with impeccable service.

We chose to dine on the Walleye Dinner with the Brussels and the Chicken Pot Pie. Both meals were delicious and highly recommended. But don’t forget to explore the drink menu, which includes an impressive selection of local craft beers and wines that pair beautifully with your meal.

Honorable Mentions

Three other restaurants we visited that get honorable mentions are:

Sheridan Street Deli. We enjoyed a deli sandwich and specialty coffee drink while our laundry was going across the street at The Laundry Room, which we also highly recommend.

Gator’s Grilled Cheese Emporium. If you are hungry for grilled cheese, this is definitely your place. More interesting ways to fix a grilled cheese than you could imagine. We found the food “okay” and the prices high. The Service was pleasant but the dining area is small and cramped. We likely would not go back..

Frisky Otter. This is a large establishment with a 4.4⭐rating on Google. We thought we’d give it a try. We arrived around 11:30 AM and the service was extremely slow and lacking to the point we didn’t know who our waitress was, ran out of drinks and the whole experience took over 1.5 hrs. The menu is large with lots of selections but the food was … meh … We would not go back.

Piragis Northwoods Company. I couldn’t complete a post of the BWCA and Ely without including this fabulous company. We didn’t use them as an outfitter but we found tons of great gear to browse, gathered a few essentials, replaced our camp stove that died on us and found some great souvenirs to take home. They have a discount store a few blocks down from the main store where we found some awesome deals to add to our wardrobe.

In Closing

If you’ve enjoyed these adventures, please tune in for more as we cover our 2024 visit to the Dakotas.

Dream Big….Travel Far….Live Well

Photography

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